The Paladar and a brief history of Cuban food

Written By Nadine Erickson

The Cuban paladar; origin story and food history

While dining out in Cuba, you're likely to encounter a variety of restaurants proudly donning the name "paladar." These eateries can range from opulent, turn-of-the-century mansions, to cozy, family-run establishments serving fine cuisine or hearty home-cooked meals. So why not simply call themselves restaurants? My curiosity to discover the origin of the paladar led me on a captivating journey through the island’s turbulent history with food, and ability to thrive as a nation that continues to face challenges today.

I first turned to my trusted resource for Spanish language interpreting, the Real Academia Española. This usually exhaustive academic dictionary surprisingly, made no reference to "paladar" having anything to do with a place one might eat. Its literal definitions are hard palate or sense of taste, and, while both might suffice to justify why Cubans use the word, the true meaning of paladar was waiting to be uncovered. First, understanding Cuba’s complicated history with food sets the stage for how the paladar came to be.

More than 31 flavors

The tropical island of Cuba lies only 90 miles off the coast of the United States. Cuba’s food industry has fueled not only its economy, but its identity. Native produce, enjoyed by the island’s indigenous Taino people, includes tropical fruits and starches like malanga (tarot root), yuca (cassava), and boniato (sweet potato) found in most traditional meals. Being surrounded by water, seafood is plentiful and fresh. These local flavors were married with influences of other countries, like Africa, Spain, and China. Slaves brought their own styles and traditions to Cuban dishes, using the local ingredients to recreate the flavors of their homeland. One might see an example of this is at a large event in the use of la caja china, (Chinese box)- a cooking method adopted after the Chinese workers who roasted tender pork in wooden boxes on the plantations. The Spanish also brought major influences, such as the Spanish tortilla (a popular Spanish egg dish), and of course Cuba’s staple, the imported Spanish pig which you might find roasted, fried or even sprinkled atop a Spanish tapa.

Cuba’s 500 years of dependency

Havana in the 1500s came alive every time sailors set port to rest, restock, and make repairs before their long trek back to Spain. Much of the food grown on the island was cultivated in preparation for the waves of temporary visitors. In Ada Ferrer’s book Cuba, An American History, she reflects “In many ways, Havana became a version of what it would remain for centuries to come. A place oriented outward; it’s economy dependent on…goods and markets from many corners of the globe.” During the Spanish colonization, Cuba’s struggle for independence—curiously led by the very descendants of the Spanish who now called it home—and its reliance on imports and exports all shaped its economy. Early on, like so many other Spanish acquisitions, Cuba was principally inhabited by enslaved people who worked the plantations and by 1830, Cuba had become the leading sugar exporter, producing more sugar than anywhere else on the planet. As slavery ended and dependency on Spain diminished, Cuba began establishing more relations with the United States, even moving part of its tobacco industry there.

There were seasons where sugar, rum, and tobacco were successful commodities on the island, but the income disparity was sadly rife: the all-too-familiar story of those who profited from the success of production and trade contrasted starkly with the laborers who bore the burden of the work yet reaped none of its rewards. At the turn of the century, after gaining independence from Spain, this disparity only deepened. The war had devastated Cuba’s population and resources, leaving the country in great debt. When the sugar production went through a rough patch in Cuba, this left the door wide open for the US to insert itself into this industry—and into Cuba’s very economy as well.

The middle-class poet, José Martí, who sparked the independence movement, had feared that Cubans would fight off one master only to submit to another. Sure enough, the US negotiated Cuba’s release from Spain following another brief war, then helped set up the Cuban government and retained the right to intervene in the future. Thus, Cuba came to depend on the US for many of its operations as well as on American imports and tourism. When the US embargo began in 1960, cutting off all trade, Cuba struggled to provide even the basics for its citizens.

Food Rationing

A temporary rationing system called Libreta de abastecimiento (supplies booklet) launched in 1962 to help Cubans endure the embargo’s effects. It prevented starvation, but did not always eliminate hunger. After the revolution, and for much of President Fidel Castro’s time in power (1976-2008), government-run restaurants and markets were the only options for buying food. Cuba also relied heavily on the Soviet Union, which supplied pasta, pizza, yogurt, medications, and a sundry of supplies that Cubans depended on during the Cold War. When the Soviet Union collapsed in 1991, Cuba experienced a severe food shortage that characterized the 1990’s as the “Periodo especial” (Special Period). Without the Soviet support, many Cubans lost weight and endured intense hunger.

Cuban Tourism

Cuban nationals have long watched foreigners enjoy luxuries they could not afford right there on their own soil. Perhaps you’ve heard of Cuba’s 1950’s heyday teeming with nightlife. Life in Havana during this time later inspired the creation of Las Vegas, Nevada a.k.a “sin city.” US citizens were barred from traveling to Cuba after the embargo, but other nationalities could visit through government-run tour agencies, requiring them to take their business to government-run hotels and restaurants. Visitors consistently praised Cuba’s beauty, but the food was generally criticized as being almost inedible. During the hardest economic periods of the “Special Period,” tourism restrictions relaxed to allow private-sector establishments an opportunity to help boost the economy.

Enter the Paladar

The paladar became the first private sector experiment which at its inception was no more than a few humble tables set in someone’s kitchen or living room where someone could enjoy a savory meal maybe of roast pork, rice and beans for a small price. The government restricted each home to a maximum of 12 seats and allowed only immediate family members to work there to prevent them from growing into major businesses. With no access to wholesale pricing or imports, each paladar had to rely on basic household equipment like a single stove and sink, which understandably stifled growth.

Paladar Inspiration

The paladar’s origin story is linked to a popular Brazilian soap opera Vale Tudo (Vale Todo in Spanish), which aired from 1988-1989. An interesting side note is that the show's title means "Anything Goes”, and it shares its name with a competitive mixed martial arts style popularized in the early 1900s. In those early days you might catch one of these untethered battles at a circus side show. You can get an idea of what it might have looked like by watching our modern MMA fights, but I digress. One of the main characters on Vale Tudo, Raquel Accioli, opens a chain of home-based restaurants called paladares which embody home cooking, warmth, and charm.

Inspired by the show, Cubans started opening their own paladares in the 1990s. Today, these establishments are iconic spots for authentic Cuban cuisine and hospitality, offering delectable dishes like lechon asado (roast pork), moros y cristianos (rice and beans), and mojitos (cocktails made with local rum, mint and cola).

Ripe for Change

After travel opened drastically between Cuba and the US in 2014, under President Barack Obama, Cuba showed signs of economic growth. The rise of the private sector allowed for a boom of new paladares to emerge, some set in some stunning locations with cuisine rivaling high-end restaurants in New York or Los Angeles. However, these paladares face challenges due to limited ingredients and frequent supply shortages. Buying in bulk often isn’t an option and they find themselves shopping at the same stores as their fellow Cuban citizens. Some however, obtain supplies through their contacts overseas in the US and abroad.

Recent changes have also allowed for more private-sector establishments. US travelers to Cuba typically visit under the Support for the Cuban People travel classification, which prohibits visits to government-run businesses. As a result, American dollars spent go directly to private businesses, contributing to a growing business class in Cuba. Where you once would never have seen a local Cuban dining at a paladar, as of a couple of years ago you might see such a thing, sure evidence that a slow but hopeful shift in Cuban society was taking place.

Be the change - Explore Cuban culture through Project Por Amor

I recently returned from another incredible trip to Cuba with an architecture group. I stepped away from my daily responsibilities at home to attend concerts, a modern dance performance, practice yoga, learn from historians, and sip some rum. I checked out a new paladar for this blog, and dined at some old favorites. What I marvel at each time I visit this extraordinary island of time-capsuled beauty currently facing grave infrastructure breakdowns, is, how much of an impact our mere presence has on the ordinary Cuban citizen. Enjoying a meal at a paladar is an easy and delightful way of supporting Cuban ingenuity, entrepreneurship, agriculture, and cuisine culture. It impacts the community one delicious croquette at a time! Dining out is just one of the ways Project Por Amor supports the Cuban people who remain stuck in the cross-fire of the governments at odds with each other.

Project Por Amor offers comprehensive cultural multi-day tours to several destinations. We don’t just visit a country, we embrace it, savor it, learn from it, and have fun along the way. Each one of our trips is also a food tour through Cuba since we believe in curating only the best culinary experiences at every turn. So whether you are thinking of joining us on a tour or planning your own trip, we are here to help. We can help you with visas, and recommend where to eat. Let us know if we can help and buen provecho!

Project Por Amor’s top 10 list of paladares in Havana

For insider guidance on all the best places to eat in Havana, check out our list of recommendations. We’ve been to almost every restaurant in the city and we know good food when we taste it. Sign up below to receive our 2025 Top 10 must-visit paladares in Havana. Just provide your email and we’ll send it to you immediately (we value your privacy). Expect to see interesting news, great travel opportunities, and cultural content on Cuba, Iceland, Sicily, Baja Norte, New Orleans, and beyond once a month—or unsubscribe at any time. We hope you enjoy our recommendations for 2025! Let us know if you have found others we need to add to our list.

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SOURCES

Nadine Erickson
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