ITINERARY
LETTERS TO CUBA: A Jewish Literary Journey with Ruth Behar
MAY 15-21, 2025
DAY 1: THURSDAY, MAY 15 | ¡BIENVENIDOS A CUBA!
Meet at Havana International Airport
When you arrive in Havana, you will pass through customs, get your bags, and exit the airport. Don’t be alarmed if it takes a long time to get your luggage. Cuba has a very slow x-ray system to scan all bags. When you exit the airport, you will be greeted by our Cuban tour guide Abelito, chauffeur, and U.S.-based tour leader Adolfo Nodal. We will gather outside the airport in groups according to arrival times and transfer to our Havana hotel.
Break through the iron curtain for a smooth arrival in Havana
Arrive at Casa Alameda and check in to your rooms
Nestled in the vibrant El Vedado neighborhood, La Alameda Boutique Hotel is a meticulously restored residence steeped in the rich colonial history of Cuba. Enjoy free WIFI, 24-hour multilingual reception and security, an outdoor plunge pool and courtyard, rooftop bar & restaurant, an indoor restaurant, daily housekeeping, and room service.
Hotel Alameda
6:30 pm ~ Orientation and Walking Tour
After settling into our rooms and before going to dinner, we’ll get acquainted with Central Park (Parque Central) and Prado Promenade (Paseo del Prado), areas filled with theaters, restaurants, bars, museums, music venues, hotels, and cafés.
Cuban Capital and ballet house
8:00 pm ~ Welcome Dinner at Chef Ivan Justo
The style of the place is thoroughly Cuban-Mediterranean, located on the second and third floors of a building that is over 200 years old. The food is nothing short of spectacular. Here we’ll have an orientation to go over basics of being in Cuba.
Welcome dinner at Ivan Chef Justo
9:30 pm ~ Havana Night Activity (Optional)
After dinner we can attend a music or dance performance, to be determined depending on what is happening in the city that night. Such activities could include the jazz concerts, salsa clubs, Tropicana Cabaret, drag shows, drinks on the Malecón, and other attractions of Havana’s non-stop nightlife (optional – transportation and entry cost not included).
Rooftop jazz at La Guarida
DAY 2: FRIDAY, MAY 16 | OLD HAVANA & SHABBAT SERVICES
Breakfast at our hotel
Wake up to a typical Cuban breakfast spread of eggs, fruit, breads, ham, cheese, juice, and many other selections. The buffet is open daily from 7:00 - 11:00 am.
Daily homemade breakfasts at hotel
9:30 am ~ Walking Tour of Old Havana and its Four Colonial Plazas with architectural preservationist Ayleen Robaina
Ayleen will speak about the intersection of Jewish history and architecture in La Habana Vieja as we get to know the historic core of Havana, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here one can find extraordinary Colonial architecture, both well-preserved and decayed, many galleries, contemporary centers, boutique museums, and little shops. Starting at the Plaza Vieja we might see a couple of exhibits of contemporary Cuban art at two of Havana’s most important contemporary art centers, El Centro del Desarollo de Arte Contemporánea and la Fototeca de Cuba. Continue down Calle Los Mercaderes to la Plaza de las Armas, Havana’s first square and origin point of the city’s settlement. We’ll continue to the Plaza de la Catedral where we’ll visit the collective graphic arts workshop, Taller de Gráfica. This public studio for local artists was established by Pablo Neruda and Che Guevara at the beginning of the Revolution as a place where artists living and visiting Havana can work on printmaking. Around the corner we’ll see an exhibit at the Wilfredo Lam Center. As we walk we’ll point out the intersection of Jewish history and architecture in La Habana Vieja. We’ll stop at Hotel Raquel, the Jewish-themed hotel, for a beverage.
Old Havana walking tour
11:00 am ~ Music by Zenaida Romeu and the Camerata Romeu
Visit the beautifully restored Basílica de San Francisco de Asís to experience a private performance of the first all women string orchestra in Latin America. Under the direction of Zenaida Romeu, the Camerata Romeu is one of Cuba’s most extraordinary classical music ensembles. This non-governmental independent music group frequently tours internationally and performs new works of numerous Cuban and other Latin American composers.
Private concert and conversation with the Camerata Romeu
12:30 pm ~ Light lunch at El Café
Enjoy light fare at at El Café in Old Havana, near Plaza del Cristo. It’s one of the only places in Cuba that serves a light and tasty lunch. Choose from fresh ingredients, great drinks, pulled pork sandwich, vegetarian options, and homemade sourdough bread.
2:00 pm ~ Old Havana’s Jewish Neighborhood
In the afternoon we will focus on the old Jewish neighborhood of Old Havana, including a stop at Adath Israel Synagogue and the kosher butcher shop.
Jewish neighborhoods of Old Havana
3:00 pm ~ Lecture on the Jews of Cuba by anthropologist and author Ruth Behar
We will head back to our hotel for an engaging history lecture and discussion about Jewish identity in Cuba led by one of the foremost scholars on the topic.
Excerpt of Ruth Behar’s presentation on the history of Jews in Cuba
4:15 pm ~ Time at Leisure
Free time to connect to WiFi at the hotel, take a swim, recharge your batteries, or take a siesta.
Sunset on the Havana Malecon
6:30 pm ~ Welcome and Shabbat Evening Services at the Patronato Beth Shalom
The core of Jewish life in the country is currently located at “The Patronage.” We will begin with a greeting by leaders of the community for a welcome tour to learn about the past and present of Jewish life in the country. We will also visit the “Marcus Matterin” library, in the same building, which has a collection of about 14,000 books in different languages on topics ranging from Judaism, history, and world literature to the history of Cuba. At 7:00 pm we’ll attend Shabbat evening services.
Patronato Beth Shalom Synagogue in Havana
8:00 pm ~ Dinner with the Jewish Community
Following the service we’ll break bread with the Jewish community to celebrate the Sabbath.
Shabbat dinner
DAY 3: SATURDAY, MAY 17 | BOOK CLUB & JEWISH COMMUNITY
Breakfast at our hotel
Wake up to a typical Cuban breakfast spread of eggs, fruit, breads, ham, cheese, juice, and many other selections.
10:00 am ~ Centro Hebreo Safardí
We will visit this historic synagogue and cultural center, a modernist gem built in 1954, reflecting the heritage and history of Sephardic Jews in Cuba. Discover its role in the Conservative movement and enjoy its architectural elegance and spiritual atmosphere. Pay tribute to their Holocaust Memorial.
Sephardic Center in Havana
11:30 am ~ A discussion between two authors: Leonardo Padura & Ruth Behar
Join us for an engaging discussion between celebrated Cuban novelist Leonardo Padura and renowned anthropologist Ruth Behar. Explore their insights on literature and culture as they delve into Padura's influential detective series Four Seasons and his life as an internationally acclaimed writer in Cuba.
A conversation with celebrated Cuban and Cuban-American novelists Leonardo Padura and Ruth Behar
1:00 pm ~ Lunch at Cinco Sentidos
A restaurant where traditional Cuban cuisine blends seamlessly with the latest culinary trends.
3:00 pm ~ Book Club Discussion of Letters to Cuba/Cartas de Cuba with Cuban leagues and author Ruth Behar
Join acclaimed author Ruth Behar and Cuban colleagues for a moving discussion of "Letters to Cuba," a novel based on her family's escape from 1938 Poland to Cuba. Hear directly from Behar about her inspiration and research, and gain unique perspectives from Cuban participants who will share their own experiences and reflections on the themes explored in the book. Participate in a lively discussion, fostering cross-cultural understanding and connection. This event offers a rare opportunity to explore themes of identity, belonging, and resilience. Bilingual interpreters will be present.
Cuban-American book club discussion of Letters to Cuba / Cartas de Cuba, by Ruth Behar
4:30 pm ~ Dance Troupe of the Jewish Community of Cuba
Members of the Jewish Cuban community will offer a special dance performance followed by snacks offered from the Ashkenazi and Sephardic traditions of Cuba.
Performance with the Synagogue’s youth dance troupe
7:30 pm ~ Dinner at la Casa Italia
We will enjoy this charming restaurant inside a boutique hotel offering a diverse array of Italian cuisine, from Tuscan to Southern-Italian dishes.
Dinner at the Casa Italia
9:00 pm ~ Fabrica de Arte Cubano
Get ready to experience Cuban Culture 2.0 as you explore this impressive arts center that presents all of the art disciplines in a dynamic new way. This cavernous old salad oil factory is now one of the hottest art programs run by artists in the world. There will be concerts, design, visual art, and a fantastic Cuban audience that will see the country's great future. You can stay at “the Cuban Art Factory” (FAC) until the wee hours of the night or come home with us after an hour or so of looking around.
The “Cuban Art Factory”
DAY 4: SUNDAY, MAY 18 | CUBAN ART
Leisurely breakfast at our hotel
Wake up to a typical Cuban breakfast spread of eggs, fruit, breads, ham, cheese, juice, and many other selections. The buffet is open daily from 7:00am - 11:00am.
11:00 am ~ Visit to Curator and Artist’s House Cristina Vives and José Figueroa
This afternoon you will visit the Figueroa-Vives Studio, a private art practice and gallery run by Cuban Photographer Jose Alberto Figueroa and his wife Cristina Vives. Cristina is one of Cuba’s most preeminent scholars and curator of contemporary Cuban art. Their two large apartments in a wonderful Mid-Century building are full of fabulous Cuban artworks. Their daughter, Cristina Figueroa is an up-and-coming Cuban arts professional. They have a collaboration with their neighbor, the Norwegian Consulate in Havana, to create a joint art program. You will spend some time with them looking at their many published books and get a tour of their collection.
Curators Cristinita and Cristina Vives discuss contemporary Cuban art
12:30 pm ~ Lunch at Paladar Los Mercaderes
We’ll stroll down the oldest street in Havana, Calle de los Mercaderes (Merchants Street), to have lunch in a beautiful new restaurant built inside the home of the owner.
Lunch at los Mercaderes
2:30 pm ~ Guided Tour of the National Museum of Fine Arts, Cuban Collection, by Cristina Vives
The National Museum of Fine Arts was designed by Cuban architect Alfonso Rodriguez Pichardo in 1955 and is dedicated to the history of Cuban painting from 1500 – 2000. Cuban art curator Cristina Vives will walk us through the history of the island through the eyes of its visual artists.
National Museum of Fine Arts
4:00 pm ~ Dinner and evening on your own
Return to the hotel to connect to WiFi at the hotel, take a swim, recharge your batteries, or take a siesta. Then split into small groups to explore Havana’s booming new creative food scene. We’ll recommend options and make reservations at the best restaurants in town such as El Cocinero, Doña Eutimia, VistaMar, Grados, Ecléctico (optional – cost not included).
Free time in Havana
DAY 5: MONDAY, MAY 19 | SYMPOSIUM ON CUBAN LITERATURE
Breakfast at our hotel
Wake up to a typical Cuban breakfast spread of eggs, fruit, breads, ham, cheese, juice, and many other selections. The buffet is open daily from 7:00 - 11:00 am.
SYMPOSIUM ON JEWS IN CUBAN LITERATURE AT CUBA LIBRO
This morning we’ll dive into the world of Cuban literature surrounding the Jewish experience with presentations and discussions by a diverse selection of scholars.
Symposium on Jews in Cuban Literature
10:00 am ~ Presentation on Jewish literature in Cuba
Discuss literary works by Cuban Jewish authors including Marcus Matterin, Jaime Sarusky, Eliezer Aronowsky and our friend Ruth Behar. In addition, we’ll look at Cuban authors who wrote about Jews, such as José Martí and Fernando Ortiz. Coffee break and stretch at 10:45.
11:00 am ~ Translating the poems of José Martí and Dulce María Loynaz with Prof. David Frye, anthropologist and translator
We will read and discuss canonical poems by Martí and Loynaz and visit their casas, now museums, in La Habana. Coffee break and stretch at 11:45.
The poems of José Martí and Dulce María Loynaz with Prof. David Frye
12:00 pm ~ Wrap up & Q&A conversation with Ruth Behar
1:00 pm ~ Lunch at La Casa Mia
Cuban colleagues will be invited to continue the discussion with us over lunch.
Lunch at Casa Mia
3:00 pm ~ Visit to José Martí and Dulce María Loynaz’ houses
Now museums in Havana, we’ll visit the original houses of these two poets discussed in Prof. David Frye’s morning presentation.
4:00 pm ~ Afternoon Free to Enjoy La Habana
Take some free time to explore any final destinations in Havana or wind down after an action-packed trip. We’ll help guide you in the right direction. Explore Old Havana, see the Capitolio, stroll on the Paseo Prado, shop at the craft market. Go for a swim, recharge your batteries, or take a siesta.
Exploring Havana on your own
7:30 pm ~ Kosher Dinner at Chateau Blanc
Dine in this private boutique hotel founded by Saul Berenthal who was a Cuban Jew who sought to create bridges between Cubans. It is the only kosher restaurant in Cuba.
DAY 6: TUESDAY, MAY 20 | A FINAL CELEBRATION
Breakfast at our hotel
Wake up to a typical Cuban breakfast spread of eggs, fruit, breads, ham, cheese, juice, and many other selections. The buffet is open daily from 7:00 - 11:00 am.
9:30 am ~ Conversation with Patrick Oppmann, CNN International Correspondent & Havana Bureau Chief
Engage in an enlightening conversation with Patrick Oppmann, CNN's Havana Bureau Chief, as he shares his unique insights on Cuba's complex socio-political-economic situation. Mr. Oppmann's firsthand accounts and deep understanding of the island's history will provide a rare opportunity to gain a richer and more informed perspective on this fascinating nation.
Conversation with CNN International Correspondent & Havana Bureau Chief, Patrick Oppmann
11:30 ~ Visit to Jewish Cemetery in Guanabacoa
Explore Jewish cemeteries with Dr. Behar, tracing the history of Jewish life in Cuba. Experience Afro-Cuban traditions in Guanabacoa, delving into the syncretism of Santería. Pay tribute at the Holocaust Memorial, learning about Jewish refugees who found solace in Cuba. This immersive journey explores Jewish heritage in Cuba, guided by Ruth Behar's expertise.
Jewish Cemetary in Guanabacoa
12:45 pm ~ Lunch at El Del Frente
Enjoy delicious lunch and expertly crafted cocktails on the spacious rooftop terrace of El Del Frente, while taking in the historic architecture of Old Havana beneath a tropical sky.
Lunch at El Del Frente
2:30 pm ~ Studio visit with Rocio Garcia
We will visit the studio of Cuban artist Rocío García, where her compelling exploration of gender and sexuality in the visual arts comes to life. Experience firsthand the thought-provoking works that challenge and redefine contemporary perspectives on identity and expression.
Visit to artist Rocio Garcia’s studio
4:00 pm ~ Time at Leisure
Return to the hotel to connect to WiFi at the hotel, take a swim, recharge your batteries, or take a siesta.
6:30 pm ~ Classic convertible ride
Leaving from our hotel, we will travel to our final dinner “Havana-style” in a fleet of specially selected 1950s American convertibles that will take us on a scenic route through Havana’s most beautiful neighborhoods. Don't forget your cameras!
Ride in 1950s classic American convertibles
7:30 pm ~ Final Dinner Celebration with live music at Havana Neon Art Studio
Celebrate our final night in Havana at Kadir Lopez and Adolfo Nodal’s neon workshop and restaurant in Vedado.
Final dinner party at artist Kadir Lopez’ neon workshop gallery
DAY 7: WEDNESDAY, MAY 21 | ¡ADIOS CUBA!
Breakfast at our hotel
Wake up to a typical Cuban breakfast spread of eggs, fruit, breads, ham, cheese, juice, and many other selections. The buffet is open daily from 7:00 - 11:00 am.
Transfer to José Martí International Airport
We’ll drop you off at the airport two hours in advance of your flight back to MSP airport and assist you with check in.
Flights Depart Havana for Home Cities
Departure from Havana to your home city.
¡Adios, Cuba!